Tag: pacifica

Surf: 4.9 feet @ 10 seconds. NW (326°) Light winds. Low tide.

Decent little morning. With the low and still falling tide, I didn’t have a lot of hope for good waves. We were joined by a coworker on a project I’ve been working on, so we opted to just paddle out rather than drag him around all morning hunting for something slightly better.

My first wave right off the bat was super fun. I got a clean peeling right that held up all the way. I got some swooshing turns, a little cutback like thing, fun fun. About halfway through my ride I heard THWACK. Looked around, didn’t see anything. I wrapped up my wave and looked around some more. Chris was standing in waist deep water holding a leash with no board. Leash string broke and the THWACK I heard was his log hopping its way into shore. After some minor repairs, all good to go.

A gal in the lineup commented that I had a nice popup and that I made it look so effortless. Aww. Stoked to hear that. I have a hard time with compliments surfing. For the longest time I thought people were saying “good wave!” because I was kooking so hard out there they wanted to offer encouragement. Either way, it’s always nice to hear some good comments from friendly folks. 🙂

The rest of the session was all over the place. As Chris said, it was quite the sampling of Linda Mar: clean peeling waves, whomping closeouts, sun, fog, sometimes crowded, sometimes not, sometimes current, sometimes not… The rest of my waves were drop and wash but still fun enough.

Surf: 4.9 feet at 10 seconds from WNW (299°) No wind. Low tide.

Probably not the best day to take my 7’0, but fun enough. I knew it was going to be on the smaller side of things, but I need a little more water time on my little board. There was a possible option to swap with Andrew to try out one of his hulls, but the waves didn’t cooperate. It’s for the best, I was kooking out a little. I stepped off the back of my board twice. Ieee. Still managed a few fun waist high peeling waves. Small is just fine so long as it’s clean.

Major shift change as I was leaving. Seemed like everyone was itching to get out. The tide and the lineup filled up fast.

Surf: Crowded. Waist-Chest with a few Shoulder high was in the mix. Offshore S winds. 7.6 ft at 10.0 s from 316° NW

Weekend crowds make me anxious but it’s nothing compared to holiday crowds. Yikes. So many people I wanted to surf with had told me they were going out so I figured as long as I got there early enough to get a parking spot, it’d be worth getting wet.

It was pretty fun. I love watching friends get great rides. It was still pretty crowded. The rest of the beach was hucking some hefty sets so many folks were crowded where I was. The wind was keeping things fairly open on our side too, which was lovely.

I haven’t taken the 7′ out since Mexico. I knew a log would be better for the spot I was surfing, and better for me in the crowds, but I’m pretty determined to keep at this shorter board gig. It turned out to be just fine. I got a few fun waves picking up scraps on the inside. Managed a cutback, a few duckdives, and a handful of other fairly competent seeming things.

Surfed about 4 hours, hit a little back deck cookout at J-Bird and Jacob’s, then back to the city for fireworks. I think this is the only year I’ve successfully watched the SF fireworks. No impenetrable fog, no looking sideways out half a window, no driving from a highway, just fireworks from a friendly rooftop.

Happy 4th, everyone!

Surf: 6.9 ft at 9.1 s from 311° NW.

Shifty, sloppy, and waist highish. I took out my 9’0 since my arms were toast from wakeboarding. I got a handful of waves, but man…my arms were burning. Little bit of sunshine and some friendly folks. Not bad.

Surf: Waist high and occasionally zippy with lots of wind.

Cold. Not horrible. Pretty fun for a maintenance sesh.

Surf: Junky waist-chest high.

I saw one of the funniest wave-steals by a SUP in the very brief history of me surfing.

The guy went out of his way to row right infront of Chris as he was paddling into the wave. Not like “oh he’s further inside and thinking about it if Chris doesn’t get it”, like the guy frantically rowed over and went for the wave about a foot infront of Chris’s board. There was some emergency breaking happening on Chris’s part to avoid him. Everyone around said “what the heck was that?!” and laughed. All except for the SUP who triumphantly surfed away, clutching his mushy chest high wave proudly. Such precious waves out there today! Can’t let even a single closeout slip by!

Meanwhile, other SUP-goers caught waves peacefully, evidently unaware of how epic each wave truly was.

Surf: Thigh high.

Much better than I thought the low tide would be. It was small, with looooooong lulls, but with winds were southerly and the waves were are clean. I was happy to have plenty of foam to cruise the soft thigh-waist high waves. The water was a rather funky brown. Fun enough for me, the whales took a pass and headed south.

Surf: Waist-Chest high. More closed out than yesterday.

It’s that old surfer idiom: Ya shoulda been here yesterday.

Folks were trying to keep from outright saying it, but in the lot and the lineup I heard plenty of: “Man, yesterday was great”s and “Wow, was I ever glad I paddled out yesterday”s

Today was much more closed out, but got a little better towards the end. The waves that didn’t close out were plenty fun, but things were so inconsistent the only way to know a wave was going to stay open was to go for it and see! I had a pretty great one what just didn’t work out. Took it, went for a bit of a high line, the thing dumped and I skipped down the face a while before going back up and over the falls. Wheeeeeee. At least I got a good laugh out of it.

Surf: Clean, Chest high, and fairly consistent. 4ft @ 11S WNW 290°

Wow, what a morning. 😀

Clean, beautiful waves and lots of laughing hooting folks. It’s pretty rare that we get days with well defined peaks and fun fun fun. I got a handful of waves that I’m plenty proud of. Got some shoulder high lefts where I swung a nice bottom turn right into the pocket and cut back when I needed to on the inside. Got a few compliments that added to the stokeyness. Very happy.